Trimming & Pruning
Structural, clearance, and crown work to ANSI A300 — we thin and shape for health, and we never top.
For healthy trees that need shape, light, or clearance.
You might need this if…
- Branches over the roof or driveway
- Crowded, crossing, or rubbing limbs
- Deadwood you can see from the ground
- Too dense — no light reaches the lawn
- A young tree that needs structural training
What’s included
- Crown thinning, raising & reduction
- Deadwood & clearance pruning
- Structural pruning for young trees
- Proper ANSI A300 cuts — no topping
- Clean-up & chip haul-off
Common questions
No — we never top trees. Topping (cutting branches back to stubs) starves the tree, invites decay, and forces weak, dangerous regrowth. To reduce size we use crown reduction: cutting back to a proper lateral branch following ANSI A300 standards, which is healthier, safer, and looks far better.
For most deciduous trees, the dormant season (late fall through late winter) is ideal — the structure is visible and the tree heals cleanly. There are exceptions: avoid pruning oaks and elms in spring/summer due to beetle-spread disease, and prune spring-bloomers right after they flower. Dead, damaged, or hazardous limbs can come off any time.